Residential Street Aerial View

Located in Harker Heights serving Killeen, Temple and Copperas Cove

(254) 690-1186

Air Sealing

Before you sell your home, it’s imperative to have it professionally inspected. One of the most common issues detected by home inspectors is air leaks. While a bit of leaking air may sound like no big deal, the loss of heated or cooled air from your home can cost you extra money in energy bills over time.

Homebuyers will be looking out for issues like air leaks when buying a home. As a seller, one of the best things you can do for the value of your home is to make sure that it is airtight.

It’s important to hire a qualified technician to identify the energy status of your home, and Rinehart Real Estate Inspection Service is here to help.

For more information or to have your home inspected for leaks, call us today!


Home Energy Audit

When you get in touch with our specialist about residential air leaks, we will schedule a home energy audit, which will likely involve a blower door test. This test removes pressure from your home and will reveal air leaks. The energy assessment will identify which parts of your home require more insulation.

Our specialist will also inspect the areas of your home where the indoors meets the exterior, including:

  • Windows
  • Doors
  • Exterior corners
  • Siding
  • Chimneys
  • Outdoor water faucets
  • Electrical outlets
  • Electrical and gas service entrances
  • Baseboards
  • Attics
  • Phone lines
  • Vents and fans

Residential Air Sealing

Once inspected, your home will likely need to be sealed. There are several different techniques for home sealing, which will vary depending on the size and shape of your home, as well as the leakage points in your home.

Our expert inspectors will let you know the energy status of your home and discuss the best ways to keep your hot and cool air in, while getting the very best bang for your buck.

Completing the Sealing Process

Our experts are happy to guide you in the right direction when it comes to sealing your home. If you wish to have your house sealed by a professional, we can get you in touch with some of the industry's best technicians.

If you wish to complete the sealing on your own, let us know. Our technicians can teach you the very best techniques for home sealing and improving market value.

Air Sealing Materials

Use a combination of these different air sealing materials.

  • Caulk: Seals gaps of less than ½". Select grade (interior, exterior, high temperature) based on application.
  • Spray foam: Fills large cracks and small holes. It can be messy; consider new latex-based foams. DO NOT USE near flammable applications (e.g., flue vents). DO NOT USE expanding types on windows and doors.
  • Backer rod: Closed-cell foam or rope caulk. Press into crack or gap with screwdriver or putty knife. Often used with caulk around window and rough door openings.
  • Gaskets: Apply under the bottom plate before an exterior wall is raised or use to seal drywall to framing instead of caulk or adhesive.
  • Housewrap: Installed over the exterior sheathing. Must be sealed with housewrap tape or caulk to form an airtight seal. Resists water but is not a vapor barrier.
  • Sheet goods (plywood, drywall, rigid foam insulation): These materials form the air barrier. Air leaks only at unsealed seams or penetrations.
  • Sheet metal: Used with high-temperature caulk for sealing high-temperature components, such as flues and chimneys, to framing.
  • Polyethylene plastic: This inexpensive material for air sealing also stops vapor diffusion. All edges and penetrations must be sealed entirely for an effective air barrier. Poly is fragile, and proper placement is climate specific.
  • Weatherstripping: Used to seal moveable components, such as doors, windows, and attic accesses.
  • Mastic: Seals air handlers and all duct connections and joints.
  • UL181 or foil-faced tape: Temporarily seals the air handler.

With the sealing process complete, your airtight home will be ready to stand out on the market and attract meticulous homebuyers. Having your home freshly sealed will surely increase the value of your property.

Air Sealing Checklist


  • Seal bottom plate of exterior walls with caulk or gasket; seal inside edge with caulk after walls are up.
  • Seal band joist with caulk, spray foam, or gasketing between the top plate and band joist, and between band joist and subfloor.
  • For bathtubs on outside walls, insulate the exterior wall and air seal behind tub with sheet goods or plastic before the tub is installed. After the drain is installed, seal the tub drain penetration with sheet goods and caulk or spray foam.
  • For dropped ceilings or soffits, duct and flue chases, and open partition walls use sheet goods and sealant to stop air leakage from the attic into the soffit and then insulate. Alternately, install framing and drywall for the soffits after the taped ceiling drywall is installed.
  • Caulk the backsides of window flanges to the sheathing during installation.
  • Use caulk to seal between door thresholds and subflooring with caulk.
  • Seal window and exterior door rough openings with backer rod and caulk, or use non-expanding latex-based spray foams that will not pinch jambs or void window warranties.
  • Seal all electrical wire, plumbing, and HVAC penetrations between any conditioned and unconditioned spaces with caulk or spray foam.
  • Seal wiring and knockouts in electrical boxes with caulk. Also, seal outdoor mounted boxes to the exterior sheathing.


  • Seal drywall to top and bottom plates using gaskets, adhesive, or caulk.


  • Seal electrical switch, outlet, and circuit breaker boxes to drywall with caulk or foam.
  • Seal the light fixture boxes, medicine cabinets, and bath and kitchen ventilation fans to drywall with caulk or foam for larger openings.
  • Seal all duct boots to floor or drywall with caulk, foam, or mastic.
  • Seal any plumbing or electrical wire penetration through drywall with caulk or foam.
  • Seal gaps at whole house fan with spray foam or housewrap tape (ensure louvers function properly).
  • For attic hatches and kneewall access doors, weatherstrip and include a tight latch. Add rigid insulation.
  • For attic pull-down stairs, make stairs airtight using latch bolts and weatherstripping. Add an insulated cover.
  • The seal between a masonry chimney and the attic framing using sheet metal or other noncombustible sheet goods and high-temperature (450°F), fire-rated caulk.
  • Seal around the metal flue of combustion equipment using a UL-approved metal collar and high-temperature (450°F), fire-rated caulk.
  • Use only UL-approved airtight, IC-rated recessed light fixtures (that meet ASTM E283 requirements); seal between fixture and drywall with caulk.


  • Repair any damaged sheathing pieces.
  • Seal all exterior penetrations, such as porch light fixtures, phone, security, cable, and electric service holes, with caulk or spray foam.
  • If not using housewrap, seal all sheathing seams with housewrap tape or caulk.

Professional Air Sealing Inspection Services

Our inspection company is proud to be one of the most trusted and sought-after in the area. Our commitment to customer care and satisfaction has helped us build a reputation that we strive to uphold daily.

If you wish to discover the energy status of your property before you sell, we can help. Contact Rinehart Real Estate Inspection Service for a trusted inspection when you call (254) 690-1186 today.

We look forward to helping you ensure that you get the very best price for your property!

Downtown Metropolitan Aerial View